Genta’s First Icon — Where mid-century elegance meets pioneering watch design.
Designed in 1954 by a young Gérald Genta, the Universal Genève Polerouter became an instant icon — born from a collaboration with Scandinavian Airlines to combat the magnetic fields of polar flight routes.
This rare ref. 104503-3 is one of the most elegant Polerouter executions ever produced. Crafted from solid 18k yellow gold, the watch features slender lugs, a beautifully proportioned 34 mm case, and a striking black crosshair dial that exudes understated luxury. The original UG-signed crown and gold-plated buckle are still present — details that make this an exceptional collector’s piece.
At the heart ticks the innovative Caliber 215-1 micro-rotor movement, which remains a technical milestone in automatic watchmaking for its thin profile and exceptional efficiency.
A perfect storm of design pedigree, mechanical innovation, and historical charm — this Polerouter isn’t just a vintage watch. It’s the beginning of a legend.
- wrist size in our picture is 18cm circumference -
DIAL
- original never touched black dial in great condition
- original hands and UG signed crown
STRAP & BUCKLE:
- black GOLDAMMER leather strap fitting up to 21 cm wrist size / 2.4 mm thick
- original UG gold plated buckle
CASE:
- great overall condition, showing minor traces of use
- 3- body 18k yellow gold case with screw-down case back
- 34 mm (without crown) / 43 mm (lug-to-lug) / 18 mm (between lugs) / 11 mm thick
- year: 1957-1959
- reference: 104503-3
- total weight: 55 g
MOVEMENT:
- Universal Geneve Caliber 215-1 - automatic microtor
- 28 jewels, 18000 A/h, 57 hours power reserve
- professionally serviced 06/2025
- -5 sec/d / 300°
